1 Year On - Japan 2014
So it's been exactly a year since I first went to Japan. To commemorate the event I put together a video showcasing some of the random footage I took whilst out there.
Feel free to share and like it!
https://youtu.be/hXKCpy4GuHI
Since that epic trip which I still reminisce on to this day (one year later!) I have undergone several changes in my life to try and continue some of the changes I had experienced whilst being in Japan.
My first and largest change was to get off the screen more. To do more things that involved not being in front of a computer. That led me to take woodworking classes for a few weeks (I hope to write up a post showcasing the stages of my wood working). Also I now regularly attend East Hill Bible College studying Systematic Theology which I find a very interesting and deeply engrossing subject.
Within a few days after arriving from Japan I realised how much I wanted to change my lifestyle. So I did a huge declutter of my room, chucking out old furniture and donating a tonne of stuff. Laid down new flooring, painted the walls brilliant white and then placed an order for some solid oak furniture in a Japanese style. I love my room now, its so bright and full of light and it makes me happy being in it.
Also, the company I worked for went through a set of redundancies, making some teams redundant, one of them being mine. Yet not a month after I was made redundant I was working on a project with them.
I also invested in a beginners piano course and picked up a used slimline piano/keyboard on eBay which I've been practicing ever since. In fact some of my goals have been to play certain pieces, difficult pieces and the fact that I've learned at least one of them offers much satisfaction. Here is a piano ghosting my playing.
https://youtu.be/nB0yRNHHWyg
My largest change is that I am now a Landowner, having just acquired a 5 acre plot of wild texas land a few days ago. There I hope to, over the next few decades, build a place that would bring back the beauty of Japan. I've acquired some Niwaki books (the art of tree shaping) and I have already started picking out trees to go on the land - I'll post up on that separately.
On top of the land I also decided to pursue the niche hobby of BJD collecting. Having picked one up in Japan I have investigated further into it and found several others that I found incredibly beautiful. Here is my travel one, Annabel, an Iplehouse K.I.D Irene.
I have started a website dedicated to showcasing them at Gift Colony.
Japan is still on my mind and I still want to go back. The next time I go back to Japan I will be prepared and will have bring enough money to commission a kimono for me. Also maybe a robot for Jose, we'll see. I wanted to go back this year though I won't be able to as my next stop will be Houston and my 5 acre plot which has no address. I wonder if I should call it after something in a book, like Rivendell or Valinor.
It's very difficult to say how much going to Japan has changed me from the person I was. I still speak Japanese a bit and I still watch shows in Japanese. I feel that since going I am a better person, a happier person. I find that the future is brighter, and full of light and hope. I will go back to Japan, it's a matter of when.
Day 22: Back to London UK - Bye Bye Japan!
Finally and sadly today we left Japan. We took the express bus to the airport at 6:15 and said bye to the super metropolis that is Tokyo and it's winding roads and towering buildings.
Thoughts of Japan
The trip has been very enjoyable and after so much travelling a long deserved rest and recuperation is what is needed. The plane was a 12 hour trip over Russia for an arrival time of 15:05 in the UK same day using British Airways. I ended up watching 5 films on the plane and no sleep mainly because the person behind me had legs that were far too long and kept hitting the back of my seat.
The weather was beautiful on arrival and blossoms everywhere and the difference between the two cities were markedly different. Tokyo a dense super metropolis and London is still a low rise suburban sprawl with the ability to see the sky to some degree still intact. Also contemporary architecture in London is markedly more beautiful than Tokyo from the traditional house to the high rise.
Still despite architectural preferences Japan's beauty lies in it's rolling hills, it's high mountains and in the detail taken to every task done. On exiting Heathrow airport I noticed there was just sky. No beautiful mountain peaks peeking above the tree line. Our own trees smaller and more straight, each one the same as the other unlike the tall curved trees that are gently nurtured in Japan.
I feel we will go back to Japan to see those mountain peaks once more. To travel the wide stretches between the cities. To see new sights and to wander roads not wandered. To find the unusual and the beautiful in the most ordinary of things. As Bilbo from Lord of the Rings once said "I want to see mountains again, Gandalf. Mountains!". Having tasted travelling how can I be limited to the size of my screen once more? I had played Skyrim on the PS3 before we left and traversing a fictional realm via horse back across rivers and plains and over mountains akin to that you would find in Japan I felt very satisfying (despite the lack of hard work involved!) I don't think Skyrim will be enough though. I know there are mountains in Europe as well but I sense the mountains that are further away are the most satisfying. Satisfying because they are far away and the excitement lies in the journey not just in the destination.
Day 21: Last Day in Tokyo - Akihabara and Harajuku
The last day in Tokyo and so much left to see. We decided to spend the day running around Akihabara and Harajuku as these were the places we felt we had to see if we could see nothing else before we left Japan.
First stop we went to Akihabara via the JR line from Shinjuku station. Akihabara described in one word would be "vibrant". The colours, objects, streets, buildings. It's as if someone decided to splash colour everywhere.
Near Akihabara station there are a lot of stores with 6 floors or more filled with merchandise for various anime, manga and games. From old style Dragonball Z to newer anime that I've never heard of these stores have just about everything and would take a long time to cover completely.
Somehow out of the blue, Jose managed to spot a Robot Shop on the 6th floor of one of these buildings from the outside. It had the latest robots and parts ranging from a few thousand yen to hundreds of thousands of yen (£30 - £1500). It had been one of our goals to see a robot and whilst we saw one at AnimeJapan this one was actually purchasable.
We also found many doll collector shops and I have no idea how my fascination with these dolls began but it was great to see the variety of dolls and various accessories and outfits for them.
After Akihabara we dropped off stuff at our hotel and headed on to Harajuku, the home of modern fashion in Tokyo. The streets were packed with hundreds of people, an endless multitude, traversing the main streets.
Tokyu Plaza (that's correct, Tokyu!) is fashion designer central and has a beautiful mirrored ceiling that changes what you see as you move up the escalator and it's absolutely beautiful and probably very difficult to clean! Still it's something that you don't see and it was wonderful to see it.
Takeshita Dori (Takeshita Street) can be accessed straight from the station and is full of various shops including places that sell Lolita outfits (in Japanese sizes only!) In fact their size system sets 4XL as a size 14 in the UK or something, not sure but their biggest size is smaller than the western sizes. They do have a tonne of cute clothes though!
Overall a good last day spent in Tokyo. Very productive and very long day. Today we used up the last of our yen on food and a few trinkets.
Day 19: Ninja Temple and the Geisha District
This morning we went to visit the ninja temple in Kanazawa also known as Ninjyadera. Despite it's name it actually has nothing to do with ninjas. The reason why it is known as the ninja temple is because even though there are only 3 floors there are seven layers. The entire place is a maze of stairs, secret passage ways, trap doors and hidden alcoves. A total of 23 rooms and 29 stairways contributed in making this place architecturally beautiful even though it lacks in other aspects. The various secrets it hides, the various access points to views never seen anywhere else. It is a little how I imagined my own house that I wish to build to be.
Inside the temple we were taken on a guided tour in Japanese (no English available except for a booklet). Photos are also forbidden inside.
Once we were out of the temple and walking around locally I also found investigated this wall a bit more closely. We see the formation for the castle bases and some residences and in general they tend to be very beautiful.
After a brief respite from the cold and rain we headed towards the Kutani Pottery Kiln. A place whose owner is currently the 5th generation of the family to be looking after the place. They had many beautiful samples that took months to make and showed the process of making these beautiful pieces.
From here we took a taxi from the nearby train station to the castle entrance. To try and keep warm we ate some yummy hot cooked beef from this beef seller.
Whilst munching away we came across a wedding procession with the bride in her silver white uchikake kimono.
After a quick rock paper scissors match we took Jose's route to Kanazawa castle. The wind blew really hard and despite the mountain fleece I was quickly very cold.
Luckily for me the sun came out and warmed me up a little. Enough to take this photo at least. The cherry blossoms really are beautiful and there are so many of them!
We wandered in and out some of the shops in this area looking at the various pieces of pottery. I got myself a small tea cup though I saw a really cool tea pot. Sadly I can't bring back too much stuff with me!
From the castle we walked to the Geisha district to visit an Okiya where the geisha used to live and perform. It functions as a small museum now and sadly no photos are allowed inside except for mobiles (which I don't understand). I'll post the mobile phone photos later when I get back to the UK.
Day 18: Through the mountains towards Kanazawa
We left Takayama on the 11:00 train which would take us to Toyama. From Toyama we would then catch a train to Kanazawa. I know there was so much we didn't see in Takayama and somethings I had wanted to see. I don't think I prepared myself for the Japanese alps well enough however. One mountain fleece may keep my core warm but it's definitely not windproof and leggings don't do the trick either! I should have invested in some warm joggers.
The train ride towards Toyama was beautiful. Our train travelled over rivers, through mountains and sometimes along the mountain side. We saw whole towns covered with farm land though I have no idea what they were farming. As we sped past them I thought it was rice but seeing the images now I don't think it is.
We passed by many beautiful houses. Some huge and some very small. They were a mix of old and new buildings. Most were in the traditional Japanese style.
With mountains surrounding us on every side it felt like we were on a giant mountain plateau. High up in the alps it's easy to imagine this place cut off with snow. The water was a deep turquoise and clear even as it frothed and spilled over rocks.
Many of the trees seem to be evergreens in Japan and I think the ones that aren't are probably the ones that turn the beautiful shades of red and yellow during autumn. I think it would be wonderful to visit this place in Autumn. If it weren't for how cold I suspect this place to get I think it might be a great place to live in fact!
I really enjoyed the view from Takayama to Toyama. Once we had changed on to the train towards Kanazawa though the view seemed more of a cityscape and less rural. Kanazawa itself feels like a modern city on arrival though parts of it cling to old tradition. I'll cover Kanazawa more in the next post. You can also read about Jose's thoughts on Kanazawa here
Day 17: Shopping in Takayama!
Today we skipped our usual routine of running around town trying to see everything. Although Takayama has lots to see the combined stormy weather with freezing cold wind and my lack of super warm clothing meant I didn't want to stay out too long.
From Yamakyu we walked to the main shopping area. It's possible to walk around the whole town if you don't mind the hilly nature of it so much. Whilst we were walking we came across many antique shops with expensive antiques inside. Even the smallest of trinkets were near £100 by themselves! There are also many French looking stores with French names which I think are to cater to French tourists.
We wandered down to the main high street and there were many shops, some meant for tourists, others not so much I think. We went into one and I tried talking to the lady owner about her goods and found out that the goods in her shop are made in China and the goods made in Japan are much more expensive. It made me real think about the effect it has on the Japanese economy, being to close to an economic giant like China.
Down one of the side roads I saw this and whilst I haven't seen any gang graffiti this is a different kind of art and still tagged with a signature. I think it's cute and have been looking for art here since we arrived though not the museum type, more local art.
My first Kokeshi Doll! I picked her up at the toy store. I have seen many Kokeshi Dolls since travelling to Japan, most tend to have similar aspects. Though this was the first green one I have seen since we have been here. Her hair reminds me of the bamboo forest we visited back in Kyoto's Arashiyama. She looks so pretty!
Finally when the storm was starting up again we headed back to Center 4 Hamburgers once more for a last Hida Burger. It was delicious and the lady gave us small hamburger sweets for coming back. These hamburgers are so cute!
Day 16: The long road to Takayama
This morning we said good bye to Kyoto though I think we will go back again some day. If just to get my custom kimono made! I’ve also figured out my family crest with a little help from a Japanese crest book which I picked up in Kyoto. I haven’t drawn it out yet but I have the idea mostly solid except for the sword detail and type of sword. I may post a sketch of it later (providing I create a sketch).
From Kyoto we took the 8:31 Hida Limited Express which took us straight from Kyoto to Takayama in just under 4 hours. The journey was pleasant with sunshine, no rain and beautiful scenery passing by of rivers running around mountains. The train itself rain by many of those rivers and also through many of the mountains. Towards the end of the train journey the train started to gently climb some of these mountains until we reached Takayama which sits approximately 550m above sea level.
After we dropped off our bags at the hotel we decided to run around the town and have a look around. We found a toy shop that sold dolls in kimono which I was so happy about as I had been looking for one ever since Tokyo but in all the places we have visited I have visited so far this is the only place that I've found that sells this particular type. I know there are tonnes of dolls out here and they are all super expensive but I'm glad I got to see this one at least. The price for this one was around £300.
Day 14: Traditional Japanese Arts, Geisha, Maiko and the Miyako Odori
Today we went to the Maiko dress up experience. I was prepped like a Maiko and Jose was prepped in traditional mens kimono. The Maiko outfit has layers upon layers of clothes all strapped, clipped and tied together. It's so elaborate and beautiful their kimono but it is also quite heavy and when you combine it with the wigs and the hair ornaments and restricted movement, you can see how much effort the Maiko and Geiko put into walking as gracefully as they do. (The geisha use their own hair).
Still it was a fun experience. I noticed they missed some aspects which I saw later on it the geisha performances but the time it took to prepare was well over an hour. To do every preparation would take even longer.
Afterwards we went to Gion to go watch the Miyako Odori. Before we sat down in our seats we had tea ceremony with the maiko and geiko. They performed it beautifully. However the amount of tourists standing up and taking photos it was like the paparazzi. They did very well to stay calm and not get too startled by all the flashes. I managed to take one beautiful shot before several tourist heads started bobbing endlessly in front of me.
We finally went inside and the lavishness of it all reminded me somewhat of Her Majesty's Theatre which performs Phantom of the Opera though only in lavishness. The style of it of the Gion theatre is all Japanese though.
As the lights dimmed somewhat and many attendants prowled the aisles with "no photo" and "no mobile" signs. I waited in anticipation when suddenly blinding light shone at the sides of the the theatre and curtains sprung up and there are the geisha sitting with their instruments. On the other side of the theatre there are I believe the school instructors who sing and play also. Then more geisha file out through a curtain and the music is absolutely beautiful. Watching them and the occasional yips and yo's from the side they glide and stamp their way to the main stage. It was a wonderful performance!
Walking down Gion in the evening we saw the area come alight and life and I was reminded that this area was for the wealthier with meals starting at 10,000 yen (£60) in many places. Jose kept looking for Ramen even though I explained that we wouldn't find ramen here.
We walked further out and stumbled onto this great sign. It was so great, I figured I'd go in and with my limited Japanese had a small conversation with the owner. He was kind enough to give us some of his artwork (nothing too big!) Today was a truly good day and I hope to see more like it.
Day 13: Kimono's, Tea and the Nightingale Floor
Today had to be one of the most unexpected days and one of the great things about doing a self guided tour of Japan. This morning when we set out we were going to walk to Nijo castle and walk down Muromachi-dōri to see about getting some kimono accessories. Within 15 minutes I found myself being drawn into this shop which is just off Muromachi-dōri.
Here there was a friendly English speaking lady who I gave my list of kimono accessories to and somewhat reminded me of the Okaasan of a Okiya. Once she saw the list she took me to the kimono sensei and proceeded to translate. Essentially I had stepped into very deep waters that I know almost nothing about! After many questions (from them) we decided the best thing to do was bring the kimonos I bought to them and let them have a look as well as try and fit them to me. I hadn't thought of trying them on (I wouldn't know how to fold them back again!) So they have been safely wrapped in their plastic bag since I got them.
As I was bringing them there, I got a little worried that, as kimono experts, they would tell me there are problems with the kimono and whilst it's good to know, it would be a little sad. Still, I brought the kimonos to them and as soon as they opened the bag they made a big fuss over them. The kimonos, whilst second hand, are done in a style that isn't done any more and most likely custom. Also, being clean and in good condition, they are very formal with some having the family crest on it (known as Mon). They asked where I got them as well as how much they were. They were shocked at how cheap they were and said I made a very good purchase on these kimonos.
Still, they explained to me that the kimonos I had bought were very small and would be too small even for a modern Japanese person to wear. These kimonos had been worn by someone much slimmer and much shorter than the kimono sensei. We tried them on me still; however, they are too small alas I have no kimono to wear!
Another conversation I also had with them was the idea of a custom kimono. For a silk kimono, the roll of silk has to be purchased seperately and this starts at 50,000 yen for the cheapest roll. As the Japanese tend to be more slender and shorter they only require one roll but westerners normally require two for an accurate fit. Though it is possible for them to fit into only one (though it tends to be a bit small). Once the silk rolls have been purchased the tailoring costs need to be factored in and that is between 45,000 yen and 67,000 yen. This depends on the type of kimono and how many rolls are used. Finally, family crests are not set in law so it is possible to adopt one and or create your own by either adapting other Japanese crests or making one from scratch. To add a crest to a kimono would be of extra cost though.
So when you convert the costs for a custom kimono you are starting at £1000 for the cheapest silk depending on the rolls used. It's a lot of money but it's really good to know. I figure if I save £10 a month then maybe 8 years from now I can commission one. Time to start a kimono fund!
So after much well wishing, they gave me a little calendar to take away with me as well as ideas for a Greensword crest. We returned the kimonos to the room and set off for Nijo castle (again!)
When I first stepped out of the subway I thought the castle looked small but that was my mind comparing it to Osaka castle which is huge and set on a hill. Nijo castle is on flat ground and is not built up as a fort but more as a residence.
Inside there were many beautiful gardens, cherry blossoms and gardeners. They were wandering about everywhere maintaining the trees and you could see how the trees were being cultivated into particular shapes using different techniques.
Also after reading so many books I finally saw and heard the Nightingale Floor. It sings just like a Nightingale and sounds beautiful. There were many people walking through the passages making the floor sing. It would be wonderful to try and recreate such a thing in parts of a household. One life ambition completed!
(If you are wondering what that life ambition is, it is to see something I have read about in historical fiction and to experience it.)
After leaving Nijo castle we made our way to Gion, the famous geisha quarter that you read about in Geisha of Gion and also see part of in Memoirs of a Geisha. It is not fully modernised with every other building being more traditional. Here we went to experience Gion En tea ceremony.
For 45 minutes we learned a brief history on tea, saw the tea ceremony being prepared and also we prepared some tea ourselves. Unlike green tea in England, whilst powdered tea can be strong (stronger than coffee in terms of caffeine) it's not bitter and can only be had in small amounts.
Finally to end a long and very fruitful day walking the streets of Kyoto we watched the sunset over the Niomon dori canal with the cherry blossoms hanging over. Tomorrow is Miyako Odori day and I look forward to seeing it!
Day 11: Kyoto, the cultural capital
We are now halfway through our trip and so far it's been absolutely amazing. The places we have stayed and the food we have eaten have greatly contributed to this grand little adventure of ours. Today we leave beautiful Miyajima Island and the Yamaichi Bekkan Welcome Inn to go on to our next destination, Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan.
Arrival in Kyoto
From Miyajima-guchi station we took a train back to Hiroshima's main station and the Shinkansen towards Kyoto. The journey took about an hour and a half. When we got to Kyoto it was completely unexpected. As a modern city it is a urban sprawl with architectural clashes between the old traditional buildings and the newer ones. The new buildings as well as layout seems like something you would find out of a movie. The streets are clean but everything else feels very stark, no swooping curves from the traditional buildings and nothing like London either. As I've only just arrived, that's my first impression however tomorrows exploration of the city will provide me a better insight I believe than what I've encountered today.
Still we took a taxi to where we are staying. As much as we wanted to go explore, today is meant to be a rest day, especially after the trekking we've done in Miyajima. This doesn't mean not doing anything though! We visited some of the local shops, did laundry and watched the samurai drama channel which whilst we didn't understand it was still interesting to watch!
Tomorrow we will be going around Kyoto at what may be a pretty intense pace with our guide. More to come soon!